Mount Makalu Expedition

Trip Highlights!

50 days

4 to 5 hours

Level
Difficulty

Makalu, 8463m is the fifth tallest mountain on Earth. Lying northeast region of Nepal, Makalu is a close neighbor to tallest peak Mt Everest. Makalu means “the Great Black One” due to its dark brooding appearance. Still, it is relatively less attempted mountain. So far, the number of individual climbers who have attempted Makalu is only some 300+. Therefore, if you wish to attempt Makalu, you need to have a lot of mountaineering experience including one attempt on an 8,000m. Makalu was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu 8201meter expedition.
Makalu has steep pitches and knife-edged ridges. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves a technical ice and rock climbing. The route to Makalu Base Camp (4823m) involves a sustained steep slope with magnificent views of Makalu (8481m) to the north. Climbing Makalu is really a demanding attempt – it’s also the reason why Makalu has not been attempted like other peaks.

  • DAY 01 – Arrival in Kathmandu.
  • DAY 02-03 – Document application, briefing, preparation
  • DAY 04 – FLY TO TUMLINGTAR (950M). 50 MIN. DRIVE TO CHICHILA (1800M).
  • DAY 05 – Chichila to Num (1500m). 5-6 hrs
  • DAY 06 – Num to Seduwa (1493m). 5 hrs
  • DAY 07 –  Seduwa to Tashi Gaon (2200m). 3-4 hrs
  • DAY 08 – Tashi Gaon to Khongma Danda (3560m). 6-7 Hrs
  • DAY 09 – Rest and acclimatization day.
  • DAY 10 – KHONGMA DANDA TO SHIPTON LA (4215M) DOBATE (3650M). 6-7 HRS
  • DAY 11 – Dobate to Yangle Kharka (3700m). 5 hrs
  • DAY 12 – Yangle Kharka to Langmale Kharka. 4-5 Hrs
  • DAY 13 –  Rest and acclimatization day
  • DAY 14 – LANGMALE KHARKA TO MAKALU BASE CAMP (4900M) 4-5 HRS 
  • DAY 15-42 – CLIMBING PERIOD FOR MOUNT MAKALU. 
  • DAY 43 – Makalu BC to Yangle Kharka (3700m)
  • DAY 44 – Yangle Kharka to Dobate (3650m)
  • DAY 45 – Dobate to Tashigaon (2200m)
  • DAY 46 – Tashigaon to Num (1500m)
  • DAY 47 – Drive Num to Tumlingtar
  • DAY 48 – FLY TUMLINGTAR TO KATHMANDU  
  • DAY 49 – Rest and shopping in kathmandu
  • DAY 50 – Expedition ends, farewell and departure
  • All airport/hotel/airport transfers
  • 4 nights hotel (3/4 star) in Kathmandu, bb plan
  • Makalu expedition permit, National park and Conservation fee and necessary permit fee.
  • All flight and ground transportation as per itinerary
  • 50 kg weight per climber is allowed for expedition
  • Necessary porters and mules for carrying equipment & loads
  • Twin sharing accommodation in lodge/teahouse while trekking
  • 3 times meals per day, teas & coffees in trekking & base camp days
  • 1 tent per climber of North face or similar for Base Camp
  • Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed in BC
  • Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
  • Government liaisons officer
  • Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
  • Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at BC (use and pay)
  • Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
  • Generator or solar panel for charging & lighting in Base camp
  • Satellite phone on pay call basis (1min = $ 3)
  • Welcome dinner
 
 
  • International flight ticket, taxes and visas (visa charge USD 40 and 4 passport photographs for the visa).
  • Meals in Kathmandu (allow US$ 15 – US$ 20 per day. )
  • Personal trekking & climbing equipment
  • Excess baggage transport
  • All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
  • Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
  • Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications – equipment (if brought)
  • Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you use Sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
  • All not mentioned in cost include part
  • Makalu has many climbing routes via west ridge, west face, south face, southwest face and northwest buttress to reach the summit. The West Face has proved to be the most difficult.  After 7 failed attempts on this route, it was finally completed on May 21, 1997 by a Russian team.
  • The normal commercial route is past the Southeast Peak and along the Southeast ridge. The climb is straightforward but moderately technical with exposure on the SE Ridge. It requires some fixed rope set-up.
  • There are three camps above the base camp. Camp 1 (6,500m), Camp2 (7,300m) at the bottom of the Southeast Peak ridge and Camp 3 (7,900 m) at the beginning of the SE ridge. 
    Terrain encountered on course of ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow fields so good understanding of alpine climbing techniques is highly required.
  • Full board climbing option: USD 17500 per person
  • Climbing Sherpa: USD 3000 per person
  • Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 400 (Re-fill)
  • Mask & Regulator per set: USD 600 (Re-use)
  • 8,516 Meter

  • 27,838 Ft

5th Highest Mountain in the world

2,378 Metre

27°53’42″N, 

87°05’20″E

Nepal

In Spring of 1954,

American Team Led by Riley Keegan

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