Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition

Trip Highlights

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Accordion Content

Level
Difficult

The seventh highest mountain in the world “Mt. Dhaulagiri” is 8167m in height. In Sanskrit Dhaula means white, beautiful and giri meaning mountain. t was discovered by the westerns in 1808. Unknowingly, it was counted as the highest mountain before the discovery of Mt. Kanchenjunga. It was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.

The Dhaulagiri massif extends 120 km (70 mi) from the Kaligandaki River west to the Bheri. There are more than six different routes to climb Dhaulagiri. The normal climbing route is considered a reasonable climb with only short technical climbing sections and moderate avalanche danger. The South and West faces of Dhaulagiri both feature massive drops; each rises over 4000 meters from its base, and each has been the site of epic climbs. The tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls is crested by a stretch of thirty miles. Several pyramid-shaped peaks rise along the main crest. Four of the summits, numbered form east to west, rise above 25,000 feet.

  • Dhaulagiri Normal climbing route is via Northeast Ridge, the route first used and climbed by Swiss-Austrian expedition in 1960. The Advance Base Camp is established at 5,300m and above there can be 3-4 camps.
  • Camp 1 : First camp will be established at 5,900m on the Col east from the ABC.
  • Camp 2 : Second camp will be established at 6,400m, reached with some steep climbing sections from camp 1.
  • Camp 3 : Third camp is located at 7200m west with steep ice and snow climbing. From Camp 3, climb towards the East Ridge, where more often we’ll experience strong wind conditions before reaching camp 4 (7500m). This is the most difficult part of the climb.
  • Camp 4 : From camp 4, if weather and condition favor us, we make direct push for the summit and return to camp 3. In difficult conditions the fallback is to setup bevy at 7,900m in order to attempt another summit push next day.
  • DAY 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel

  • DAY 02: Expedition document application, Preparation, briefing for Expedition DAY 03: Drive to Beni

  • DAY 04: Trek to Tatopani

  • DAY 05: Trek to Ghasa

  • DAY 06: Trek to Marpha

  • DAY 07: Rest at Marpha

  • DAY 08: Trek to Yak Kharka

  • DAY 09: Trek to French Col

  • DAY 10: Trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp

  • DAY 11-43: CLIMBING PERIOD OF MT. DHAULAGIRI

  • DAY 44: Trek to Dhampus ColDAY 45: Trek to Marpha

  • DAY 46: Trek to Jomsom

  • DAY 47: Fly to Pokhara

  • DAY 48: Rest & Relax in Pokhara

  • DAY 49: FLY TO KATHMANDU

  • DAY 50: Departure from Kathmandu

  • All airport/hotel/airport transfers
  • 4 nights hotel (3/4 star) in Kathmandu, bb plan
  • 2 nights hotel (3/4 star) in Pokhara, bb plan
  • Dhalagiri expedition permit, Annapurna Conservation fee and necessary permit fee.
  • Scheduled flight : Jomsom/Pokhara/Kathmandu, domestic air tax
  • 50 kg weight per climber is allowed for expedition
  • Necessary porters and mules for carrying equipment & loads
  • Twin sharing accommodation in lodge/teahouse while trekking
  • 3 times meals per day, teas & coffees in trekking & base camp days
  • 1 tent per climber of North face or similar for Base Camp
  • Dining, Kitchen, Store tent, mattress and all camping facilities needed in BC
  • Experienced and professional staff at BC : Base camp manager, cook, kitchen boy
  • Government liaisons officer
  • Equipment allowance, wages, life, medical & life, medical & rescue insurance for all Nepali members.
  • Emergency oxygen, mask & regulator at BC (use and pay)
  • Immediate Rescue co-ordination (covered by your travel insurance)
  • Generator or solar panel for charging & lighting in Base camp
  • Satellite phone on pay call basis (1min = $ 3)
  • Welcome dinner
  • International flight ticket, taxes and visas (visa charge USD 40 and 4 passport photographs for the visa).
  • Meals in Kathmandu &  Pokhara (allow US$ 15 – US$ 20 per day. )
  • Personal trekking & climbing equipment
  • Excess baggage transport
  • All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
  • Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
  • Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications – equipment (if brought)
  • Climbing Bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpa (if you use Sherpa), Tips for Base Camp Staff
  • All not mentioned in cost include part
 
 
    • Full board expedition option: USD 14000 per person
    • Climbing sherpa: USD 2500 per sherpa
    • Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 400 (Re-fill)
    • Mask & Regulator per set USD 600 (Re-use)
     
  • 8,167 Metre

  • 26,795Ft

7th highest mountain

3,357 Meter

28°05’39″N, 
86°39’39″E

Nepal

Dhaulagiri Range