Lhakpa Ri is a superb objective which should appeal to climbers looking for a 7,000m summit in a famous location. The visit to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers
The mountain is one of several peaks that line the east flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals. The most climbable 7,000m peak in the world ! Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world.
We spend time acclimatizing at base camp before making the two-day hike to advance base camp (ABC), at about 6,300m.
The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank, ascending low-angled snow for 600m, which steepens at mid-height to around 30-35°. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, we turn south and follow the snow ridge to the summit.
After returning to base camp, we complete the remainder of the Friendship Highway, driving along the northern side of the Himalaya range, again with views of Everest, Cho Oyu and numerous other peaks. The road eventually descends to the Friendship Bridge, where we cross into Nepal and continue to Kathmandu.
Mount Lakpa Ri is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very closed to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to climbed Mount Everest the moment, one reaches on the top of this mountain.
It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col.
Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988, the Fourth ascent by Ken McConnell in 1991. The present expedition teams are also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past.
Mount Changtse is located adjacently north of Everest hence the name Changtse which is Tibetan for north peak. 2 other well-known peaks of the Everest-group; Lhotse (4th highest mountain in world) and Nuptse mean respectively south and west-peak. Mount Changtse was first ascended in October 1982; officially by a German expedition; but in fact it had already been climbed by the Dutch climber Johan Takes; only 11 days before. I bet the Germans must have thought the peak was still virgin…. takes was a member of the 1982 Dutch Everest-expedition (Tibetan side; east Rongbuk), and climbed the mountain apparently without a permit against the will of the other expedition members. Nowadays the mountain receives little attention; only 1 or 2 (Chinese) additional expeditions have been listed.
KATHMANDU – Lhasa (Saturday & Tuesday): Morning about at 10:00 AM you will be heading to the Kathmandu airport 8KM far from City. To fly for Lhasa, This must be perhaps the most beautiful flight in the world from Kathmandu to Lhasa crossing above the world highest peak mount Everest and the other charismatic Himalayan rages. After one hour 10 minutes, you reach Gongar airport in Tibet . From airport to Lhasa city, it is 90km. You will go there either by bus or Jeep; and reach in the hotel and to take rest for the acclimatization.
LHASA : One day or 2 days will be Sightseeing time frame and excursions to POTALA PALACE, NORBULINKA, THE JOKHANG and the surrounding BAKHOR market, DREPUNG & SERA MONASTERIES.
LHASA-GYANTES : 280 KM. Many busy villages, yaks, mountain sheep, and lakes are on your route on this day and; you should cross the famous Brahma-Putra River (Son of Brahma god, the creator of this cosmos) also at this time. Now passing over Karo La and Kamba passes, 5,010m. & 4,794m respectively, you final destination awaits Ghyantse.
GYANTSE-Lhatse : 200km. The morning is for you to explore the Tibet ‘s second largest city Xigatse for one hour, including the world famous Tashilumpo Monastery. In the afternoon, you will arrive in Lhatse from where the road to MT KAILASH is bifurcated. Lhatse to Tingri : 150 km. Now from Lhatse, crossing the Maphu La pass 5220m; you reach to Shegar city and after that the Tingri is ahead on your way where your night halt will be arranged.
Climbing Sherpa for Himalaya:
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for the your expeditions. Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing, so because of this, they have been found to facing many hindrances on their way. If you take Sherpas along with you on the expedition, they are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy; and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day’s climbing. Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides on the expedition, are found to be succeeding as per our past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa guides
Mt. Cho-Oyu expedition is known to be one of the easiest to climb of the world’s fourteen 8,000 meter mountain. Mt. Cho-Oyu is sits on both sides of the border of Nepal and Tibet, about 30 km. west of Mt. Everest. It is the sixth highest mountain in the world 8201m. Mt. Cho-Oyu is translated in Tibetan as “The Goddess of the Turquoise.” The south face of Mt. Cho-Oyu expedition, facing Nepal, is quite steep and difficult, and is rarely climbed. The north side of the mountain, accessed from Tibet, is more moderate, and there is a relatively safe route to the summit. In the autumn of 1954, an Austrian team made the first ascent via this route. the majority of the Mt. Cho-Oyu expedition teams climb the peak via Tibet side due the easy technique through the Tibet. Ramdung Expedition Pvt. Ltd. is also conducting the expedition via this same Tibet side. A numeral of Himalayan peaks from 6000m. As well as more lie in Tibet sides which are open for foreign climbers. Our Company is fully organized to make available any logistical support of any kind of expeditions. You’ll hone your ability to climb and stay healthy at extreme altitude and also learn the techniques of climbing with an oxygen system. We also include a great trek option for those wanting to experience the beauty and challenge of the Himalaya without requiring any technical climbing skills.
Mount Everest is the highest peak of the World 29028ft. (8848m.) through which the climbing toppers feel them selves as the most proud and adventurous person of the World. Sir Edmond Hillary and Late Tenzing Norge Sherpa first climbed this peak in May 29, 1953, after their long time’s effort.
Everest Base camp is situated on the north of Khumbu glacier at high of 18000ft. All the international Mt. Everest climbers assemble here during the starting and at the ending time of there climbing. Normally the climbing duration of this expedition lasts for 90 days. All the climbers who mass there at the base camp seem really busy with excitement for the preparation of their expedition to reach on the summit.
Some climbers climb this mountain on their own risk without any climbing Sherpa guide; and some climbers go with their own climbing Sherpa guide. Most of the teams carry own their on Internet, Satellite phone, Medical Doctor and rest of the modern requirement.
After the Base camp, we have to cross crevasses and ice block. Similarly we should face to the way up having Chunks of ice as large as our houses where we should used fixed ropes and aluminum ladders to climb ahead camp 1st 6400m.
Camp 1: 20000ft. (6,400m)
This camp 1 is situated at the flat area of endless snow deep crevasses and mountain walls. Because of the Sun’s reflection from this place we get warm and heating ambience at this place. In the night we listen the deep murmuring cracking sounds of crevasses beneath our tent. These are the areas where we have to walk to reach camp 2.
Camp 2. 21000ft. (6,750m)
This camp 2 is situated at the height of the 21000ft, which is located at the foot of the icy mount Lhotse wall though where we have to go ahead. Weather is here is good but bad clouds roll in from the low range of the Himalayan valleys to the bottom of our camp two. But wind here some times seems very violent enough to destroy our tents. After climbing these palaces we reach camp 3.
Camp 3. 22300ft. (7,100m)
Camp 3 is located at the height of 22300ft, adjoining to mount Lhotse wall. After climbing the 4000ft. Lhotse wall by using fixed rope and with prior acclimatization it leads us to camp 4. Also on the way we have to ascend the steep allow bands (lose, down -slopping and rotten limestone). From their crossing short snowfield the route moves ahead up the Geneva Spur to the east before finishing the flats of the south col. (Another wells name meaning Saddle of pass). Oxygen should probably be use above base camp 3 incase of needed to the climbers.
Camp 4. 26000ft. (8,400m)
Now we are on camp 4 which located at the height of 26000ft; it is the last camp of the Expedition. From here summit is about 500m, distance far. This is the final and dangerous part of the climbing. This place is besieged by ferocious and violent winds. The normal best way to reach the summit is via the narrow South – East Ridge and it precedes the South Summits 28710ft. From here the way is easy to reach at the summit of the Everest 29028ft; and late Sir Edmond Hillary and l Tenzing Norge Sherpa used this route in 1953.
everest north face expedition
everest tibet expedition
Lhakpa ri one of several peaks that line the east flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals. The most climbable 7,000m peak in the world ! Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world.
Gurla Mandata is the 34th highest mountain in the world lying in the Burang county of Tibet.
it is the closet neighboring mountain near to sacred mountain Kailash. The another name for Gurla Mandata is “Namo Nani” meaning “Fairy’s peak” in Tibetan language. The first ascent of the peak was by a joint Japanese/Chinese team led by Katsutoshi Hirabayashi, via the north side of the peak in 1985. After this only 5 ascents have been made till to date this mountain.
The way to the ascent goes via Zalonpa glacier from the Northern slope. From the top of the Gurla Mandata, you can see the beautiful sparkling lakes Mansarovar and Rakchays (Demond lake); and then the mount Kailash peak can be seen along with this on its background. The ascent can be started from the Zalunpa glacier.
Shishapangma is one of the lovely mountain of Tibet, which lies in its Autonomous Region of the Peoples Republic of China. Only very few people in the world have an idea about the Shishapangma before Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978 A.D. The Tibetans regard it as the holy mountain. It is the youngest among fourteen mountains above 8000m. That lies in high Himalayan ranges. The North West Ridge (normal route) to Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following our acclimatization in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will arrive at base camp 5000m ready to do our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gear from Base camp to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route. Some times the extra additional days are also required for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well.
Shishapangma officially know as Xixiabangma is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world and the lowest of the eight-thousanders mountains. It was the last 8,000 meter peak to be climbed, due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions on outside visitation to the region imposed by the Chinese during the 1950s and later. The mountain has two summits, the commonly climbed Central summit that the Chinese say is 8013m (7999m on old maps) which we have reached four times. Naturally, we will be aiming to climb to the higher true summit, 8027m (26,335ft), let’s see if we can get there.
Before the Chinese opened Tibet to western mountaineers in 1978, little was known about Shishapangma. The only 8,000m peak to lie entirely in Tibet, it lies tantalizingly close to the Nepalese border, shrouded behind the great, but less high, border peaks of Langtang. Enterprising individuals sought mere glimpses of it during the period that other 8,000m peaks were receiving their first ascents! It is perhaps not surprising that it was the last of the 8,000m peaks to be climbed. Not that its ascent by the North-West Ridge presents any great difficulty. On the contrary, it is now regarded as one of the most straightforward 8,000m climbs and its summit is frequently achieved.
Regarded as a ‘holy’ mountain by the local Tibetan population, and lying on the route to Mt. Kailash, Shishapangma continues to baffle us. Historians cannot fathom her names – Shishapangma, Xixabangma, Gosainthan. Yet, the mountain is perhaps the most accessible of her genre, rising only a few miles west of the Kathmandu-Lhasa Highway. It was 16 years before the mountain received its second ascent, by a West German team in 1980, and it has been climbed every year since.