Mount Dhaulagiri (8167m) is the seventh highest mountain in the world and has enormous Himalayan massif located in North Nepal. It was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is derived from Sanskrit ” Dhavala means” means “White” and girl is “Mountain” The mountain was sighted by British surveyors in India in the early 1800s and was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873; but the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949.
The French mount Annapurna expedition in 1950 had permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri but decided on Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri. A Swiss party failed in 1953 as did an Argentine group one year later.
After four more expeditions had failed, eight members of a Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960. The climb followed a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass.
As French Col, to approach the summit from the North-East Col. The expedition was supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the “Yeti” which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. Near the end of the expedition the plane crashed near Dhampus pass and the pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.
Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche killed seven members of a US expedition on the East Dhaulagiri Glacier. The peak was then climbed by the Japanese in 1970, the Americans in 1973 and the Italians in 1976. Captain Emil Wick airdropped supplies to the US expedition from a Pilatus Porter aircrafts. Among the delicacies he dropped were two bottles of wine and a live chicken. The Sherpas would not allow the chicken to be killed on the mountain, so it became the expedition pet. It was carried, snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten feet, to Marpha, where it was finally eaten up in the cooking pot.

Another history – Dhaulagiri
Mt. Dhaulagiri, the White Mountain & seventh highest mountain in the world, is an enormous Himalayan massif, located in north central Nepal. After its discovery by the western world in 1808, it replaced Ecuador’s Chimborazo (20,561 ft.) as the postulated highest mountain in the world. It maintained this standing for nearly 30 years, until the discovery of Kanchenjunga, which was then falsely believed to be the world’s highest mountain.
Dhaulagiri’s crest stretches for thirty miles, lending structure to an otherwise tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls. Along the main crest, several pyramid-shaped peaks rise. Four of these summits, numbered form east to west, rise above 25,000 feet.

Baruntse Peak lies in the heart of the Khumbu massif to the west of Makalu . This captivating ridge is surrounded by some of the most famous peaks of the world: Everest, Lhotse , Ama Dablam and the list continues. Baruntse is the most accessible 7000-meter peak in the region besides having a normal route of ascent, which can be guided. The first to make its summit were the already famous Hillary and Jim McFarland. The ascent route is through the southern ridge overhanging the famous West pass; this is in act the traditional route opened by Hillary and Shipton in 1952. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hongu valley, one of the most fertile regions in Nepal , passing northward through a beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes through delightful Sherpa country and provides for excellent acclimatization. The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5400m and sits near the pristine lakes below Amphu Labtsa pass. The route then follows a long ridge leading to the summit. An ascent on Baruntse is an adventure for climbers wishing to meet a true Nepalese 7000 meter.Summit day includes spectacular views of Lhotse, Everest and Makalu.
The expedition can be done of Baruntse via one of two options depending on the political situation and local logistics.
OPTION 1 – From the Makalu side via the Barun National Park, famous for its flora and fauna, after a spectacular flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar.
OPTION 2 – Via Lukla, the Mera La and Hinku valley as if going to Mera Peak. We would exit via the Amphu Laptsa Pass, Island Peak and then down the main Everest trail.

Ama Dablam Expedition or Mt. Dablam climbing is fascinating and exciting because it is the most beautiful mountain in Everest region and greatly challenged peak of 6912m. The meaning of Himalaya Ama Dablam is “Mother’s Necklace” as the long ridge on both side looks like the arms of a mother who is protecting her child. The Sherpa people thinks that hanging glaciers of Dablam is the traditional double pendant which contains the picture of the gods worn by Sherpa women. Ama Dablam is dominating the eastern trekking for many more days to the Everest base camp. Climbing permit from the concerned department and a liaison officer are necessary climb this popular Himalayan peak. The most popular route is the south-west ridge to climb. The climbers establishes three camps along the ridge with camp 3, which is just below the right side of the hanging glacier. The best season for climbing Ama Dablam is April-May as well as September-October. The brave Sherpa had already climbed Mt. Ama Dablam. Ama Dablam was believed as the highest peak of the world previously. The south west ridge is the normal route to climb. Most of the amateur climbers starts their climbing through mountain. The previous expedition team had set up base camp at 4770m and camp 3 at 6400m to conquer the summit with great success. The trek to base camp is the most exciting with acclimatization days. To see the prominent mountains, trekking in the Khumbu region is the best. Trekking to Mt. Ama Dablam we should take a flight to Lukla then walk to Namche Bazar, Tyangboche Monastery and Pangboche before setting up base camp. For the safe passage rope is fixed in the route and the Sherpa climbing team places the tent in the required area. This makes your expedition more enjoyable and memorable. famous climber and the legend Tenjing Norgay commented that Ama Dablam is the most beautiful and challenging mountain to climb.

ANOTHER HISTORY – AMA DABLAM

The normal route to climb Mt. Ama Dablam is from its South- West ridge. Most of the mountaineering beginners start their climbing through this Mount. Ama Dablam 6812m. Ama Dablam is a small snowcapped peak of 6812m lying in the Everest region. This South – West ridge is the normal and most popular route to ascend the Mt. Ama Dablam. This mountain is considered to be the most technical & difficult to climb. The mountaineers have to cross-difficult ice rocks and steep snow climbing one their climbing route. Mountaineers usually have to pitch 3 high camps on the mountain of mount Ama Dablam 6812m. To reach the first camp from base camp, the climbers have to pass the toughest and the difficult passing through the difficult saddle ridges; and then should turn to the north climbing up through the rocky ground and through the boulder. We are in Camp one now. From Camp I – one has to cross the rocky bowl and should climb the ridge via to the fixed lines to Camp II . From Camp I after crossing over severe rocks and ridge which lead you to a camp II. The climbing route from Camp II is mostly with the steep mixed alleyways of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the slope climb to snow ground and then passes through steep snow and ice tunnel then finally along the snow ridge go to Camp III, From here to the summit, it is steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier. From the Top of mount Ama Dablam we can see very charming sceneries of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Island peak, Makal , Khumbu Himalayan and rest of the snowcapped surrounded mountains can be envisioned.